Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1999/10/11

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Subject: [Leica] B&W film: Ilford vs. TMax
From: Ted Grant <tedgrant@islandnet.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 09:22:18 -0700

Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:

<<<<I read the datasheet carefully and noted that Kodak recommended about
3x my normal agitation in processing.>>>>>>


Hi Godfrey,

Like wise myself at the beginning........just couldn't get it to work! But
then the light came on:  "I read the  instructions!"  And unlike Frank
Sinatra, I stopped "Doing it my way!" And did it "their way"!!! Surprise!
What do we have here! Beauty negs and prints! Nice big 16 X 20's.

  "Why would KODAK spend thousands of dollars experimenting the development
of this film, telling me "How it should be done" and then me not follow
their instructions? Then whine about it being a "no good film"  So I
started developing exactly as in the instructions.

The beginning of successful use of TMax:

OK exposure:

I rate it exactly what they call it:  TMax "400" out doors and TMax "800"
indoors.  Meter straight through the M6, R 7 or 8. Red lights come on
"PRESS BUTTON, TAKE PICTURE!":)  Remember..."keep it simple!" It's a no
brainer with a Leica!

Whether the TMax 400 is rated at 400 or 800, it is given exactly same time
and temps!

Darkroom preparation: Lights on...developer poured in tank, 75 degrees.
Lights out, load stainless steel reels plunge reels into tank, lid on,
timer on, lights on!  "AGITATE VIGOROUSLY!"

 "TEMPERATURE OF DEVELOPER" (1 dev: 4 water)  75 degrees for 6 minutes!
exactly like in the book! Same time and development for 400 or 800.  The
reason it works best at higher temp is due to the viscosity of the liquid
developer...it's like syrup, hotter temp allows it to thin out and work
better over the emulsion.

 "AGITATION!":     "Vigorously" is the operative word! Most of us learned
to "agitate gently," tap tank on table etc etc. Well folks that smoothie
system doesn't work with TMax....100 - 400 - 3200.

Shake 'er a good one for the first 15 secs! yeah I know some are going to
say things like "hot areas around sprocket holes etc"...it doesn't happen
unless you go crazy. And at least 3 or 4 quick inversions every 30 secs
until time over.

I don't use stop bath: Times up.  In the dark....lid off... developer
dumped. Fixer "exactly same temperature" is poured to fill tank quickly ...
lid on and then shake the hell out of the tank for 2 or 3 minutes. Lid off,
check negs, back into fix to complete time. Total fix time...about 5 mins.

All temps are maintained 75 degrees, washing as well. After 10 changes of
running water (tank fills dump water fill again)  Hypo eliminator (1 oz)
"OK one quick gurgle" agitate well for 45 - 60 secs. dump! ........fill
tank running water...2-3 minutes...dump water refill and use wetting
agent...very carefully, only a few drops.... Agitate tank, dump and plunge
reel into clean water and out immediately....removes excess wetting agent.

As each reel is removed for drying, hold reel tightly in hand and snap the
wrist action in downward motion to floor, removing excess water.. Then hang
to dry.

Of late, due to interest of Ilford film discussions on the LUG, I have been
trying it....very interesting...have to try more before I get the "real
good feel for it" Simply because, TMax really works for me. :)

Anyway, there is gang, one method for TMax films.....Don't forget, what
works for me may not be your cup of tea!!

ted








Ted Grant
This is Our Work. The Legacy of Sir William Osler.
http://www.islandnet.com/~tedgrant