Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1998/09/17
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Hi George, A great big thanks for your thoughts on the setup for developing film. I had a flood of responses on this thread but I still appreciate the unique passion and generousity it has brought forth. Although each person has a different setup/preference, your experience in the darkroom provided more for me to think about. Like you, most people advised against using the fixer hardener, dirty sponges / squeegees, and the open tank fast pour method. But it's the little things that are really helpful like your suggestion to use Photoflo sparingly, Hana film clips, and that without a loader the Kinderman reels are hard to use. Also you are the only person who provided a disposal method ... i guess this is a tricky one legally but millions of photogs DO it. Lastly, thanks for suggesting a sealed drying cabinet but I'm not good with my hands unless my husband, Ron, wants to tackle this.. Besides what characteristics would the cabinet have? Ron's not bad at woodwork really ... he finished a 250-bottle door- covered wine rack with open bins last summer. It took awhile to do since he could only work on it on weekends only. Well I'm off to Freestyle Photographic in Hollywood to meddle with darkroom timers and thermometers. Thanks again!! Cheers! Bee Lian George Huczek wrote: >>1) What brand of fixer has a hardener built-in already (snip) >You don't need a hardener. It causes longer washing times. >>2) What Fixer Remover is best (snip) >I use Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent. It works well. >>3) What Stop Bath / Wetting Agent chemical do I use >Acetic acid stop bath, Photo-Flo is OK when used very sparingly >>4) For above items 1,2,3 - how many times can I reuse the chemicals? >8 rolls of 35mm, for 500 mL solutions. Trying to stretch your chemicals any further can cause serious problems, especially if fixer reaches exhaustion. >>5) Does the film squeegee serve the same function as a photo sponge (snip) >Yes, they both serve the same purpose - to scratch the negs! Don't use either. As a final rinse, use distilled water, with 2-3 drops of Photo-Flo per 500 mL of solution. Let the film drip dry. The distilled water prevents water spots from forming. >>6) Whats your set up like for a dust free cabinet for hanging negs. Any tips on the drying process? >Natural, over-night air drying is OK for limited volume. Build a sealed cabinet, long enough to hold a full-length 35mm roll (or a half-height cabinet and cut rolls in half.) >>7) Proper procedure of disposing the used chemicals >Avoid septic tank disposal. This question is too involved for a simple answer. >Mix spent developed and stop bath, mix used fixer and hypo clearing agent, then dispose normally in the sink. >>8) I plan to get stainless steel Hewes reels and a 2-reel tank from Kindermann. Does anyone recommend using the Kinderman reels instead of the Hewes? >I tried them, but without the loader they are not easy to load, because of difficulty reaching the center tab. Hewes are good reels. They load easily and are durable. >>9) If I ever want to try the fast pour method by leaving the lid open and working in total darkness until the fixer's ..(snip).. done, what timing device is best and how does that work? >Pour in daylight through the lid. There's no need to use a so-called fast pour method with a double-reel tank. >>If there's anything else I should know about the developing process, just jump in !! >A process thermometer and a good timer are useful accessories. Try the Hana film clips. They hold film well. Eventually, get several tanks and reels, so you can process a batch at a time. This saves lots of time. GH