Re: [Leica] Jumping in the soup (was "sharp B/W for Learners" / "improving leica images")

["Dan Post" <dwpost@email.msn.com>]

Beelian-
Goodness! Where to begin!
First, I use Kodak Rapid Fix- I usually don't use the hardener since
hardener make it harder to wash all of the fixer out!! I would try a few
rolls with out the hardener, and if you are careful, you will not scratch
your emulsion.
Two- hypo or fixer eliminators are many and varied. Simple soultions of
sodium sulfite ( 2% solution) makes a good hypo clearing agent, as does a 1%
solution of common ammonia- though with the ammonia I would suggest you use
the hardener, or should I say, if you use a hardener, use the ammonia. In
the 'olden days' some photographers used seawater before the final rinse,
and since that is about a 4% salt solution, you could try that! Sodium
sulfite is cheap, and easily available. I use it one shot.
Three- for wetting agent, I use Kodak Photo-Flo, mixed at 1/2 the
recommended rate and use one shot.
You will need a 1 liter graduated cylinder or beaker for mixing, a stirring
paddle, a good dial thermometer, a plastic funnel, and some film clips
though I have at times used wooden clothes pins without any problem. To wipe
the film, use a CELLULOSE sponge dampened with Photo-flo to wipe excess
beads of water from the film- keep it clean and always wet it before using
 just wet, and squeeze out- it doesn't have to be dripping!) this does the
same as a squeegee.
Reels- Whatever you are happy with! If you are like me, the kinderman and
nikkor reels pose no problem- if you are unsure of yourself, then by all
means, use the Hewes. Much of what you will hear about doing your own film
is what that particular person you ask finds comfortable!
Fixing in the dark? I don't think it is necessary. I use a enlarger timer
with a processing mode for doing film. I start it when I finish pouring in
the developer, and start to dump the developer about 30 seconds before the
time is up. If I use a stop bath, that totally stops the development, and
you can leisurely pour in the fixer, again starting the time when the
processing tank is full, and starting to dump or pour out 30 seconds before
the thee 'dinger' goes off! I never worried about fractions of seconds even
when I did slides, and I always got good results following the things I
learned in the Kodak Dataguides....
The main thing is to have fun, and don't get stressed over stuff that
usually doesn't matter, like what kind of reel to use... a tip- take a strip
of film to the store, and try to load it on the reel with your eyes closed
 no cheating!) If that reel is easy to load, use it! I guess I would love to
have a Hewes Reel, but at 20 bucks apiece, I am comfortable with my old
cheapies because they give me no trouble!
You will need a safelight- here again... preference and what you want to
spend. I still have two Yankee safelights I got years ago- I started out
with them in 1963, and even though I've dropped and broken several, they are
cheap and they work.
Have fun, and let us know how things go!
Dan
dwpost@msn.com