Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2012/02/04
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Mark, the very right lower corner of each frame is shown at http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/Corners-18-v-21mmZM.jpg . The blades of grass will not be exactly the same because the lenses cover different areas. ?They were centered on the same central target. Reasonable people can differ as how much the sharpness in the very corners matters, particularly if you generally crop to, say 8x10, but I don't always crop. ?The results correlate very closely with my real world experiences over the years with symmettrical v. retrofocus optics. I favor rangefinders in no small part due to their ability to use more symmetrical wide angles -- smaller and better. With the vignetting problems of electronic sensors, the number of top notch symmetrical designs may be on the wane. As one who does B&W, I don't care that much about the red edge. So, I grabbed what may be near the end of a dying breed -- the 21mm C-Biogon. I look at it this way: the more the optic has to bend the light, the harder it is to balance out the various aberrations. At any given price point, the symmetrical design is probably going to be noticeably better than the less symmetrical one. ?It seems to be a matter of degree, and I don't know where Zeiss draws the line in its naming. With the 21mm C-Biogon, I think Zeiss hit a nice compromise for film, but with the dominance of color and digital, it's probably the end of that line for that focal length. Richard, you're ahead of me on the nodal point rotation. ?I've had to do a lot of manual work on some of my old stitch jobs. As a practical matter, what I find is that where I'm doing a major foreground-background sweep, it's usually a vertical shot without stitching that gets me into the parallax issue. What I find I do rather frequently to get a bit more coverage, a few more pixels, and extreme DOF in a horizontal image is to, first, take a horizontal, stacked composition that is aimed somewhat down, and then just take one shot at infinity with the camera moved up to capture more of the sky. ?That way I'm using the full width of the frame (and need those corners good), and I find skies easy to stitch, manually if need be. ?That approach can't get an extreme pan, but with a 21mm (with good corners) the coverage gives an 8x10 proportioned final print with about the same coverage as a cropped 15mm, and with great sharpness and relatively easy workflow. I have been curious about the differences between Gigapan and CS5 stitching. ?Have you done a comparison? By the way, I have tried to make a (roughly) matching pair of sky images, one of which is the "Approaching Storm" M9 stitch, and other is a single frame, Bronica RF645 with 45mm and Tech pan. ?It was an interesting exercise to work up the two approaches and see how they compare. The coverages are quite different, of course. It's sort of a "before and after the storm" type of feeling I was looking for. ?See http://www.paulroark.com/SYV-Skies.html Paul www.PaulRoark.