Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2007/07/27
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Hi Marty, Both of your recent rants -- first on Xtol, now on Rodinal -- have been extraordinarily useful and interesting reading for me. Thanks, and keep ranting. Peter. SF, CA --- Marty Deveney <freakscene@weirdness.com> wrote: > Rodinal is an AGFA proprietary name for a highly > concentrated developer that uses para-aminophenol > (p-aminophenol) as its primary developing agent and > potassium hydroxide as its activator (alkali). The > formula is unpublished but can be replicated > relatively easily. Fomadon R09 is similar; > Photographer?s Formulary makes a version, > Fotoimpex has Adolux APH09 and Calbe R09 is another. > There are others and you can mix your own. I > haven?t followed the 'what has happened to > Rodinal since AGFA collapsed' story ? maybe > someone else can fill this in for us. > > Richard asked: > >I was reading over the XTOL rant and wondered how > does XTOL relate to > >Rodinal. I have heard that Rodinal is a > compensating developer. So > >how similar are they. Rodinal is a much older > formula I know. > > Xtol and Rodinal are not related chemically at all. > There are some interesting formulae you can try that > combine both p-aminophenol and ascorbate, which I > have included below. Rodinal is a compensating > developer, but only because it works well at very > dilute concentrations. Development by-products that > are released by the film include bromides, which are > development restrainers. With most developers, the > amount of developer around the film completely > negates these bromides, but because p-aminophenol > develops effectively at very low concentrations, the > bromide restraint works effectively to > proportionally diminish development. The pH of > Rodinal is very high (very alkaline) and this is > part of the reason for its activity at high > concentrations and the graininess of films developed > in it. Rodinal has a reputation for sharpness (more > on this below). > > >Another question is Rodinal suitability for > processing T-Max and > >Delta films. So what say you all. > > Rodinal will develop any film. But tonality, an > important component of B&W photography, is > influenced heavily both by film and developer and > the paper (or post processing if you print digitally > from negatives). Rodinal has one tonal > characteristic that limits its usefulness for me; it > tends to lower midtones. With films like Tri-X this > gives a beautiful ?dark? look that can > work very well. It also works(ed?) well with the > APX films. With flat-grain (T-Max) and epitaxial > (Delta) monosize emulsions, Rodinal tends to > apparently lower the midtones more (I say apparently > because I haven?t measured it, but it looks > like a proportionally greater effect to me), making > tonality odd and generally less than optimal. > Printers and scanner/photoshoppers of considerable > skill can get around this (Ansel Adams produced > beautiful work from HP5 or Tri-X in HC110 dilution > B, or so he said, whereas both are poor F&D > combinations that produce ?soot and > chalk? t! > ones even at normal CIs) but for most of us it just > makes life tough. Rodinal is a particularly poor > match for T-Max 100 (TMX). T-Max P3200 (TMZ) at EI > 1000 or 1600 developed in Rodinal 1+50, on the other > hand, is quite striking if you like HUGE grain, but > again, the midtones can be a little problematic. I > think most films that look good in Rodinal look > better in dilute D23 (except Tri-X which I think > needs a little hydroquinone with its metol and looks > better in dilute D76). They all look better to me > in Xtol. > > The other often overlooked factor associated with > Rodinal is that it isn?t as *relatively* sharp > as it is often made out to be. Anchell rates it > slightly as having slightly higher acutance than > dilute solvent developers, but I think that results > from D76 1+2 are equivalently sharp and Xtol 1+2 or > 1+3 looks sharper to me. Amusingly, D76 has no > reputation for sharpness at all. When Anchell wrote > about dilute solvent developers, I don?t know > if he?d experimented with low-sulfite > developers using ascorbates. I'm working from > memory here. Beutlers, some of the Crawley formulae > and some pyrocatechin developers are also MUCH > sharper (Anchell?s book discusses this at some > length and it was summarised by Mark Rabiner here: > http://leica-users.org/v21/msg10232.html). Neither > dilute D76 or Xtol will produce the loss of emulsion > speed that highly dilute (1+75 and above) Rodinal > will typically display. Remember that very high > sharpness developers often don&#! > 8217;t have the best tonality. > > >Rodinal makes no attempt to hide grain. It actually > gives grain sharp > >edges and increases the contrast of the negative. > X-Tol seems to > >increase contrast as well while minimizing grain. > > I?m trying to be explanatory rather than > contradictory here; contrast in B&W film is > controlled by exposure and development. While some > developers are inherently more contrasty than > others, with modified exposure and development time, > almost any developer (and certainly any standard > developer) can be used to develop film to a given > contrast index (CI). How it looks will change, > however, because the F&D combination will have a > different shape curve (after all, the CI is just the > average slope of the density curve). What you see > with both dilute Xtol and Rodinal are adjacency > effects ? they look contrasty because of their > acutance, which tends to produce highly defined > lines where widely spaced tones meet in photos. > > >I use X-Tol for most of my 35mm to give me the > finest grain. > > I recommend this strongly. Xtol has the best > combination of film speed, sharpness, and grain > structure of any developer I?ve seen. For > 35mm films, the only reason to use anything else is > a lack of ability or willingess to use distilled > water. It works remarkably well with almost all > films. > > >The other advantage to using Rodinal is the > convenience of having a > >super long lasting concentrate always handy without > the worry of an > >expired, powder developer when I haven't developed > film in awhile. It > >works just fine with any film I've ever used, even > the Ilfords you > >mentioned although I now prefer the Fuji films to > just about anything. > > If what you really want is an everlasting > concentrate, Rodinal is very good. My first samples > of JB9 (see the Xtol rant) show no sign of oxidation > or loss of potency after ~2 years and might be a > good substitute for those who want an > ?everlasting? concentrate with the > advantages of ascorbates. PC-TEA is also pretty > much indestructible. > > Classic Rodinal formula > Solution A > Water, 125F/52C 750 ml > p-Aminophenol Hydrochloride 100 g > Potassium Metabisulfite 300 g > Cold water to make 1L > > Solution B > Cold Water 300 ml > Sodium Hydroxide 200 g > Cold water to make 1L > > Mixing instructions: Add chemicals in specified > sequence. Always use cold water when mixing sodium > hydroxide due to risk of heat reaction. Unlike many > other two part developers, you must mix both parts > together to make the concentrated solution. In The > Film Developing Cookbook, Troop and Anchell suggest > the following sequence for making the concentrated > developer: Allow Solution A to cool until a > precipitate forms. Mix Solution A in an iced water > bath at this stage, then slowly mix in Solution B > while constantly stirring, first adding 280ml of > solution B, and then adding the remainder until the > solution suddenly turns dark. Follow this by adding > the last drops of Solution B very slowly. Always > wear gloves and protective goggles when mixing > sodium hydroxide. > Dilution: 1+25, 1+50, 1+75, 1+100 and others. > > It?s interesting that hydroxide + bisulfite > produces sulfite and that a litre of 1:25 strength > Rodinal probably has about 14g of Potassium Sulfite > in it. This provides about as many sulfite ions as > 10 grams of Sodium Sulfite. > > Rodinal variations > > Some photographers dissolve 25-100g of sulfite in > the diluting water prior to adding the Rodinal. > This seems like a completely counterproductive move > to me. > > 4g/L sodium ascorbate makes Rodinal more active, > finer grained and partly addresses some of the tonal > issues. Don?t use ascorbic acid ? it > will decrease the pH enough to kill the developer. > If all you can get is ascorbic acid, mix 2 parts > ascorbic acid with 1 part sodium bicarbonate > (bicarbonate of soda) in some water and wait until > the fizzing stops to convert it to ascorbate. Pat > Gainer says that adding ascorbate sometimes causes > significant fog ? this figures since the pH of > Rodinal is high enough to allow the ascorbate to > initiate development on its own (rather than acting > in synergy with p-aminophenol). If you experience > fogging, Pat Gainer says that 1g/L borax buffers the > pH enough to prevent fogging. He goes on to add > that 1g/L borax in plain Rodinal decreases grain and > fog. Plenty to try here. > > Patrick Gainer?s PCK > 10 grams p-aminophenol.HCl > 20 grams ascorbic acid > 30 grams sodium sulfite > 10 grams sodium hydroxide > 1L water > Mix in order. As soon as you stir in the sulfite, > you will see the same sort of precipitate that you > see when mixing Formulary Rodinal. Add the 10 grams > of hydroxide. Use diluted 1+9. I haven?t > tested this, but it should work well. > > Sam Elkind?s insane Xtol/Rodinal hybrid > Xtol = 100 mL > water = 400 mL > Rodinal = 4 to 5 mL > > Sam says 9 minutes works well for Tri-X @200 @ 24C. > > I?ve only read this; I haven?t tried it. > People will try anything after all. It should > work, but it would be costly and probably > isn?t any significantly better than PCK. > > Again, I hope this is informative and useful. Much > of this is derived from tests, but much of it is > also just my opinion. If you have a long-lasting, > almost physical love for Rodinal, please don't worry > about defending your developer of choice - I can see > why you like it. I just don't. > > Marty ____________________________________________________________________________________ Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! 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