Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2005/09/21
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]On my early M3 the frameline window is frosted glass...no discernable coatings on my other windows which sort of surprised me...not sure about the counter window. The way I handled the self-timer was to set it to full-on, and then be very careful not to trip it...went back together very easily. I used a flexi wrench to get the self timer threaded bits off. CZ on the road in Canada -----Original Message----- From: Vick Ko <vick.ko@sympatico.ca> Sent: Sep 21, 2005 7:04 AM To: 'Leica Users Group' <lug@leica-users.org> Subject: RE: [Leica] Step #1: Disassembly Great work, Feli. My comments below: -----Original Message----- From: lug-bounces+vick.ko=sympatico.ca@leica-users.org [mailto:lug-bounces+vick.ko=sympatico.ca@leica-users.org] On Behalf Of feli Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2005 2:37 AM To: Leica Users Group Subject: [Leica] Step #1: Disassembly ...snip.. You also need a manual. Do not attempt to do this without one. Vick----> absolutely agree, the US Military manual is the best. It also describes how the mechanisms work. Buy it on ebay. The worst part is figuring out, which items are left or right hand thread. Vick ----> there are 2 significant left hand screws. The self timer is one, the other is inside the camera and you will likely never have to undo it. Reinstalling the self timer screw and getting the position correct is fiddly too. The flash plug sockets are tricky and I had to make a special clamp, from some scrap wood to protect the threads. The covers come off easily, but the threaded sockets are another story. Vick ----> Did you buy the special spanner kit for Leica's? There is one tool that removes both the outer ring and socket. You should not have needed to make anything. I'm skipping the black collar around the self timer. It looks like it would explode in to a million parts ... Vick ----> Good idea; I've never removed this part Forget about the ISO dial on the back... Vick ----> the dial is rivetted in. You need to remove the vulcanite on the door, and then either carefully pry it off, or drill out the rivets. Then either glue it back on, or tap new threads into the back and use tiny screws. Not impossible, just difficult. And did you take the lens off the film counter? It is on a very fine thread. In a true black camera, the mount is black. The lens can be pushed out, but be prepared to glue it back in. Also, there are 2 plastic parts, that counter lens and the RF illumination frosted window. Be extremely careful with them, because chemicals can dissolve them. I learned that lesson the hard way. The glass windows are also quite thin and fragile; take care not to chip them. Another piece of advice, cover the now exposed RF windows on the camera with lens tissue and tape over them. I invariably got my fingerprints on them, and you do not want to have to clean them. Their coating is quite soft. Feli