Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2005/05/23
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Tina: I now realize that we were talking about two overlapping but somewhat different things. For the record, I will shoot JPG only when I'm doing routine snaps under easy conditions where the audience is family or friends and I don't want to spend lots of time on each image. The E-1 helps in this case, because it produces really nice JPGs out of the camera without much tweaking. The rest of the time, I shoot RAW. I think of RAW the way my dentist thinks of flossing. He says you should only floss the teeth you want to keep. I think you can dispense with RAW only for those pictures that you know will be perfectly exposed and white balanced, and have a dynamic range that won't blow your sensor's limits. In my earlier post, I was talking more about whether or not you were stuck in the camera manufacturer's RAW converter for most adjustments or not. You are quite right that certain things are best done right from the RAW file, especially white balance. Ditto for other camera-unique things that get stored in the RAW file, such as what lens you used, which keys information from a vignetting table, or reduces purple fringing more in the field than on-axis (geez, I sound like Erwin now :-) But when it comes to curve adjustments and sharpening and such, I prefer to work on the 16-bit TIFF after basic RAW processing. I just think I have better control in Picture Window Pro than I do in Olympus' RAW converter. So I just turn off the RAW developer's features that I want to handle later: sharpening, contrast, saturation, etc. And I can do the same blending of highlight and shadow RAW "developments" that you demonstrated--I just have to save the two versions as TIFFs, then blend in PWP using a variation on the clone tool that is the rough equivalent of history brushing. Photoshop users have the advantage of having the RAW converter included in their image editor. So the boundary between RAW converter and image editor is blurred. I'm still doing things a la carte with Olympus' RAW software as my "appetizer." Among E-1 mavens, the RAW software favorites seem to be Olympus Viewer or Studio, followed by Capture One, with Adobe RAW in third place. The consensus is that Viewer or Studio produce better E-1 detail and color than Adobe Camera Raw. If you say that your results using the RAW converter for curve-type adjustments are better than the 16-bit TIFF, I'll take your word for it, as I haven't sytematically tested it and you have. But it's interesting: I have read that for color, unless your adjustments are fairly drastic, often 8-bit suffices. Yes, you get some toothcombing, but not anything you see in the final print. I have found that to be mostly true, but not always, and decidedly not in available light situations. So I still prefer to stay 16-bit until I'm at least done with curves. So my digital workflow is white balance and "exposure compensation" in RAW, and maybe a bit of brightness and contrast adjustment if things are really pushing the envelope. Get it roughly right, but don't sweat the small stuff. Then save as a 16-bit TIFF and go to PWP, where I know the curve tool well, and I have subtleties in the sharpening tool that I just don't have in the RAW converter. Hmm. Maybe I should try Capture One LE, where you can easily do most Photoshoppish things in the RAW converter. --Peter >Peter wrote: > >Tina: As I understand it, a 16-bit TIFF file contains pretty much the > >same information as the RAW file. > > > >--Peter Tina wrote: >No. There is a big difference between Tiff and Raw files. The Tiff has >been converted and decisions have to be made when the file is converted >from RAW. Especially with the newest version of Photoshop, you have the >ability to correct chromatic fringing, lens distortion, vignetting, >temperature, exposure, sharpness, noise, and a lot more. The Raw file >contains every bit of possible information. When it is converted, even to >a 16 bit Tiff, bits of information are discarded and cannot be covered in >the converted form. If you try to do some of the adjustments that are >possible on a Raw file with the Tiff file in Photoshop, you will end up >with combed histograms and posterized and banded prints.