Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2001/09/05
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]I am assuming that the camera is not new and has no warranty. Otherwise I would send it back for adjustment. First, do not remove the top plate from a TTL. It is stuffed full of $$$$$ electronics just waiting for you to zap them with static. If you commonly repair board level electronics then go ahead. The proper way to adjust the vertical alignment is to use a special tool through the access hole under the "red dot". To remove the "red dot", push it gently side to side with a non marring tool (wood or plastic). YOU HAVE TO HAVE THE TOOL which is roughly $280US from Leica (part #150-000-001-279). It is probably better to just send it to someone who has the tool. Second, to adjust the shutter's release point read this post from the archives: - ---------- From: V8PWR@aol.com Subject: Re: [Leica] M6 shutter-release problem Dans un courrier daté du 09/06/01 12:49:29 Paris, Madrid (heure d'été), leicameter@hotmail.com a écrit : >>>I have a problem with the shutter release of a used M6 that I just >>>bought by mail. >>> >>>Does anyone know if this is a simple adjustment that I, carefully, >>>could do as a user with a reasonable understanding of mechanics but >>>modest experience in camera repair? Would any special tools be >>>needed? Would I run a high risk of destroying something. > > >> >>It's fairly simple, and if your camera has nothing else that needs >>looking at, then you might do it yourself if you are handy and have a >>good set of small tools. If you take off the cover (with the film >>loading diagram, you will see a long spring arm that moves down with >>the shutter button. It engages the actual release mechanism by >>sliding along a sloped piece right by the winder cog. You will see >>that the lateral position of this long spring arm is what governs the >>release point, and the two big screws held by loktite near the other >>end (film cassette end) hold the spring arm in place. You will have >>to loosen these two screws, move the spring arm very slightly, and >>retighten and re-loktite these screws. I should only take an >>experienced technician 5 minutes to do the job, as no other >>disassembly is required. >> >>Hope this helps. >> >>-- >> * Henning J. Wulff > > > There are some precautions you should take when attempting this adjustment. > Firstly those little screws that hold the cover plate on are very, very tiny > and easy to lose, therefore I suggest that you place a light coloured blanket > or towel on the table that you will be using to work on the camera. Then if > you drop one of the little screws it won't go bouncing off the table never > to found again. Secondly be very careful not to dislodge or drop the ultra > thin shims that are held in place at one end of the camera by two of the > aforementioned screws which go through the cover plate and through locating > holes in these shims. If you drop those shims you will have a devil of a job > trying to line them up again. These shims are used to get the right height > for the main base plate catch mechanism. > > You then will have to move the long leaf spring slightly (and I mean ultra > slightly) towards the back of the camera i.e. the back flap side. > Tighten the two large leaf spring retaining screws and try your shutter > release. You may have to adjust the leaf spring again to get it right. If > you move the leaf spring too far away from the back of the camera, it will > fire when you wind the shutter. When you get it right do as Henry suggested > and place a very tiny, tiny amount of loctite on the two leaf spring > retaining screws. A quality set of jewelers screwdrivers > will be needed to avoid damaging the screws. Take your time and use a good > light source and you should be right. > ________________________________________________________ I've done the adjustment with great success . It's a real pleasure to use a Leica M6 with the softness of an M4. I like very sensible cameras , cause I think it improves the ability to shoot at low speeds handheld . But there is a word of caution I would like to write down . Once you've removed the back plate ( the one with the loading drawing ) , put one screw back in place , to retain those shims in place . This will allow you to try and fit the camera , holding it normaly and shooting. Also remove the back door out of the way , there is a spring easily pulled with a small pick .( put the pick where the small cruciform screw is and pull on the side . But , more importantly , be very carefull when you unscrew the 2 screws retaining the flat spring . On the other side of the screw closest to the back door , there is a small brass nut . This nut is NON CAPTIVE . Although this screw actually fits to a thread on some kind of frame , the nut is there , and if you unscrew that one too much , the nut might fall into the camera . If this happens , don't panic . Turn your M6 on the normal position and let the nut fall down. You can put it back on place with a small L shaped piece of flat metal ( Taken out of an old car wiper ) . Hold the nut with a dab of paint and maintain it on place , then engage your screw in it . Your 2 spring screws can be locked with paint instead of loctite ( loctite can sometimes be much too strong for the application .) You also might put a very small amount ( very very very small ! ) of grease on the extremety of the actuator spring touching the release mecanism . Don't drink more than 2 beers before doing that and certainly no coffee ! Cheers JO GOODTIMES -FRANCE/ AIRBORNE RADAR TECH / LIVE FREE OR DIE will soon walk with mud covered combat boots... > From: The Mauler <mauler@mac.com> > > I just took delivery of a Leica M6 TTL and was having fun checking it out > when I found the vertical alignment was out by a bit. While this may not be > that noticeable in the 0.72x finder, I find the aligned image a little > fuzzy. Also, the shutter release needs to be pressed all the way down to > the retaining ring to fire the shutter. I find my hand shaking when I do > this. > > Does anyone know if I can DIY the vertical alignment and shutter release? I > know how to remove the top plate of a classic M6, assuming the TTL's top > plate isn't much different. >