Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2001/05/21
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Henry wrote: << Tell me more about your experiences with DiXactol*. I've been trying different films (especially new Delta 400) in it. I'm getting only fair results overall, kinda grainy but spectacular highlight compensation. I've only done the 2 bath so far. Any tips? >> Henry, I will add stuff, that you will already know, into the main text to make this clearer for anyone unfamiliar with DiXactol. My results with Delta 400 to date are not encouraging - there is a mealy graininess in areas of even tone. I found this with D3200 as well. Both of these have two sensitive layers, the fast layer in D400 being the same as the slow layer of D3200, I believe (I haven't actually counted them myself). 100D and 400D only have one sensitive layer. My feeling, based on the results from DiXactol and Resofine (a modified Stoeckler D23 two bath) is that the fast layer does not respond as well as the slow layer in some developers, giving a slumped sort of a curve. Just my feeling based on my results so far. Does anyone have any thoughts on this: - that a two-layer film could exhibit strange curve shapes in some developers? I prefer XTOL or DD-X for D400 so far. I used the two bath for almost a year before trying the single bath. I tried the two bath first, liked it and used it until I learned from Colin Dixon (in 'Freelance' magazine) that Barry Thornton himself uses mostly single bath. The staining is greater with the single bath - with APX400 it is a bit excessive for me, so I use two bath for APX400. Everything else is done single bath for between 8 and 9 minutes at 24degC (I'm still working on my times for the one bath) with agitation every 2 minutes. The low agitation improves the compensation effect, which is a little lower than with the two bath. The single bath method gives more control over contrast. I retried TMax100 after changing to single bath and finally got results that I liked (and liked a lot). My toe speed test suggested EI 125 at least (my standard test procedure does not allow for speeds more than half a stop faster than the ISO). This is my speed, of course, but it is the first time I have found a speed above the ISO speed. One bath is extremely economic: 1 ml of A per film and 7 ml of B for N development. Barry sells extra B for single bath fans. The tap water in our area has a lot in it that isn't water, so I always use deionised water for diluting it. Barry says that water is less critical with single bath development. I don't think that it is a fine grain developer, but it is sharp. You've already mentioned the highlight compensation. The negs are very versatile (ie plenty of info to interpret in different ways) with a long range. Most work I have seen used HP5+ in 120 and LF, and 100D or TMX in 35 mm. I use APX400 in 35 mm and it gives wonderfully sharp negs with lovely tonality and barely perceptible grain at A4 size (the grain isn't A4 size, the paper is). The colour change when you put B into A is lovely to watch! I use water stop and neutral Agfa FX-Universal, then wash six times in water after the 2 minutes used dev bath, leaving it for 2 or 3 minutes after agitation in washes 3,4, 5 and 6 to give a total of about 20 mins washing time. This long wash increases the stain - the instructions say that it is a subtle increase, I find it to be noticeable. When scanning I have experimented with the RGB settings (I scan in colour) and found that the slight yellow-green colour of the stain does let you get different 'looks' out of one negative (ie by emphasising the grain-masking stain or the grain itself), but I prefer a fairly balanced mix of RG&B. *DiXactol (pronouced dyzaktol, according to the maker of it, Barry Thornton) is a high acutance developer that stains and tans like Pyro, but the stain is nearer to a neutral colour. It can be used as a single bath or a two bath. As a single bath dev the times for most films are similar, but D400 and HIE take a little longer. It works, but not well, with D3200 and I haven't bothered trying it with TMZ or TP. Verichrome Pan needs some benzotriazole restrainer adding to control the fog. It is based on glycin and catechol. It smells nice, the smell reminds me of relaxing in hospital for some reason. Like pyro, you pour the used dev or an alkaline wash into the tank after the fix to do the staining thing. Like pyro, it likes a non-acid process. HP5+ (also available as Maco UP400 Plus) and APX400 stain a lot. You can vary contrast by varying dilution with the single bath method. Maybe, being made from venerable things like catechol and glycin, the developer is actually subject-sensitive. It is alright for classic pictorialism but produces unpleasant reaction products when used for other subjects. Stick to fully clothed women (no bare ankles), picturesque farmworkers, architecture, rock, water, trees and clouds, then you will be OK. Ask if there is anything else... Best Regards, Malcolm PS Barry Thornton himself is a very helpful, but busy, guy. You can contact him via his website www.barrythornton.com