Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2001/01/12
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Martin: >>How do I (step by step) do split printing?<< The idea is to use two filters -- one high, one low contrast -- rather than a single medium contrast filter. I run a step wedge with a #5 Ilford MG filter to identify mimimum exposure for maximum black. I usually run the test on the border of the image which is base plus fog. For the sake of example, lets say it's 15 seconds. I take a second sheet and expose it with the #5 for slightly less than the max black time, say about 12 seconds. I then do a step test for middle tones and highlights with a #0 filter. Again, as example, 3 to 21 seconds using 3 second steps. The reason I back off slightly with the #5 is that there is some overlap exposure using the #0. After developing this second sheet I can usually tell what I need for the highlights. Lets say it's 15 seconds When I make my first print I expose using the #5, for 12 seconds. Then I exposure using the #0 for 15 seconds. My first attempt is never exactly right. I usually tweak things slightly -- giving a couple of seconds plus or minus with either filter, depending. Theoretically you should be able to come up with the same results using a single filter, but splitting exposure between two filters is much easier for me for some reason. Another benefit is you may want to dodge or burn while using one filter or the other. For example, I often want to burn in a person's face without darkening the hair. I can't do this with a single filter. My burning tools aren't that refined. However, if I burn using the #0 filter the face darkens slightly, but the hair doesn't materially darken. It doesn't always work exactly as planned, but you sort of get a feel for different things. Overall, spit filter printing provides some flexibility, I think. Now for the bad news. I never was able to work this technique using my Valloy or my Focomat. I think it's due to the tungsten light source. Tungsten bulbs emit a relatively broad spectrum of light. Cold light, OTOH, emits a very narrow spectrum of light. Consquently, filters seem to work a little better. As you know VC paper has two emulsions. Each is sensitive to a different spectrum of light. The more you can control the spectrum of light, the more you can control contrast. It takes burning and dodging to a much higher level, as well. Hope this helps. You can probably make split filter printing work with a tungsten light source. I wasn't able, but I didn't know as much then as I do now. BTW, how to you use filters in your Valloy? I never found a filter tray that would work. I always took off the top of the lamp and placed the filter on top of the condensor. I found a piece of heat synch glass that I put on top of the filter to keep them from melting; which occured a couple of times before I went to a lower wattage bulb. Dave