[Leica] b/w printing renaissance

["Rodgers, David" <david.rodgers@xo.com>]

Over the holidays I cleaned up my darkroom and did some serious b/w printing
for the first time in over a year. For some reason everything fell into
place.  I got better results than ever; deep rich blacks, clean whites, and
just the right mid-tones. I printed portraits, landscapes and even some
night shots. All the images seem to jumped out like never before. I don't
know what made the difference. But here's an accumulation of things I hadn't
used before. Any or all may have helped. 

1) Zigalign -- Precise enlarger alignment makes more of a difference that I
ever imagined.  

2) Aristo Cold Light Head -- I have a D2, a Focomat 1c and a Saunders 67
Dichro.  Last summer I bought Mark Rabiner's old Aristo cold light (he
upgraded to the VC4500 head) and replaced my D2 condensor head.  I really
like it. I've read all the books that say the type of light source isn't
really a big deal. Perhaps not, but I'm sold on cold light. Even for 35mm. 

3) Split filtering technique -- Instead of using filters 0 through 5 I only
used the 0 and the 5. I test for maximum black using the #5 filter. Then I
run a step wedge test using the #0, for highlights and mid-tones.
Theoretically, I've read that you should be able to get the same results
using a single filter, vs split filtering. But I was never able to achieve
the same results. 

4) 4-bladed easel -- For some reason I never thought much of four-bladed
easels. I had a vacuum easel setup. I bled images to the edge of the paper.
Last summer I picked up a used Saunders 4-blade for 11X14. It obviously
didn't improve sharpness. But printing images with trim edges and borders
improves the overall look.

5) Formulary BW65 Paper Developer -- I ran out of Dektol on a day when
everything was closed. I had some BW65 that I'd never used. I was very
impressed. The stuff is good. Extremely good Dmax on Ilford MGIV with no
sign of fogging in the highlights. It's fast for a glycin developer. 

6) Ilford FP4+ film -- I'm taken by this film. I bought a brick last summer
on a promotion. I'd been using tab grain films. But the FP4+ negs seem to
require less burning and dodging. It must have just the right curve, for me
at least, in XTOL 1:3. 

7) Abrahamsson's Rapidgrip -- I really think this accessory gives me a more
steady hold.  

I didn't mention things like Leica lenses or MGIV paper because I've used
these things in the past. The above list is just recent modifications or
additions. I primarily used scanners and inkjets in 2000, but the lure of
the darkroom is back. 

Dave