Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2000/08/16
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Chris, if one is clever, they know better than to be rich and famous. As to the Tech Pan at ASA 100, the following is the formula for the brew two of us spent a few years working on. It is very inexpensive, simple to make and it keeps well in individual 8 oz bottles. I mix 3 liters of it and place it into 8 oz. amber glass tightly stoppered bottles obtained from my pharmacist. The following is the brew: Directions for Pota-HC110 developer for processing Tech Pan at ASA 100: In 300 ml hot water mix 1 tablespoon Sodium Sulfite and 1/8 teaspoon Phenidone . I use the set of plastic measuring spoons that come in a set for kitchen use. In the UK spoon measurements may be different. In weight it is 22.8 Gms Sodium Sulfite and .35 Gms Phenidone. ( If it had not been for the intransigence of King George [ 1776 ] the UK and the US would probably be using the same measurements today). To the above add 2 ml. HC110 syrup ( measure with a child's medicine syringe found at any pharmacy ). pharmacy ). 2 The measuring spoons mentioned above are just fine, extreme accuracy is not necessary. Filter through coffee filter that is placed in a funnel. Cool to 68 degrees F. Use stainless nikkor tank for one roll only. Discard developer after one roll, ( Phenidone developer oxidizes rapidly and should be discarded after one roll). I place tank in a tray of water that is 68 degrees to keep temp constant. Develop for 6 minutes. After filling tank, rap tank to dislodge air bubbles, then give one gentle inversion over and back. Place tank in water bath of 68 degrees. Agitation: Do not agitate until beginning of third minute and at that time one gentle inversion over and back. Repeat at top of each remaining minute. At end of 6 min., drain, use short stop, and follow with rapid fix for aprox 2 min. Wash as usual, rinse in distilled water for final rinse, then instead of foto flow, pour in rubbing alcohol ( I prefer it to foto flow. It is often on special at pharmacies for 39 cents a bottle ). Let sit in alcohol for a minute or so, discard alcohol and hang film to dry ( no squeegee or sponges as that is a terrible thing to do to wet film). Hang in dust free place. ( If I sound dogmatic at times, it is because I am dogmatic at times ). Because of variations of meters, camera shutters, thermometers, and other variables, you might want to adjust your time of development slightly. Since concocting the above brew formula, I have found that it simplifies life to mix 3 liters of the above brew ( use 10 x the brew formula ), filter as above and pour into 8 Oz. Brown glass bottles obtained from a pharmacy. Fill each bottle so that there is no air and screw on top tightly. I have found that using my last bottle 6 months after mixing gives the same results as with the first bottle used right after mixing. All I do is place a bottle into 68 degree water bath and when brew reaches the bath temp, I pour it into the tank. ASA 200 can be achieved by increasing the developing temperature to 70 degrees F. and following the rest of the above procedure. There will be a loss in shadow detail however. The above gives me the best negatives I have ever made and they print beautifully with the split filtration method and they are beautiful on the new Ilford cooltone MG pearl paper. See: http://beta.content.communities.msn.com/Leicausers/PhotoAlbum Scroll Photos by RichardC at bottom of page, See album titled Tech Pan at ASA 100. Please allow for my inexpensive scanner and for JPEG quality. Chris, I will be in Agde, France for the month of October so can show you some prints in person if you care to drop in for some wine. Richard At 11:04 AM 8/16/00 +0100, you wrote: > Technical Pan. >>I find it unsurpassed for any subject matter we choose. The only problem >>with it was the ASA 25 rating and the use of technidol developer. I have >>spent the last six years overcoming the slow ASA rating problem and now >>have evolved a method of using the film at an honest ASA 100 with full >>tonal range, especially with the use of split printing and the new Ilford >>cooltone paper, but it works almost as well with most any VC paper. >>Richard > >Well Richard, as they say in Germany, let the cat out of the sack! What's >your method? How do you get no grain without losing acutance and with full >shadow detail at e.i. 100. Is it low cost too? Let us know, because >otherwise we'll have to ask ourselves: if you're so clever why aren't you >rich and famous? > >Chris > >-- >Christer Almqvist >D-20255 Hamburg, Germany and/or >F-50590 Regnéville-sur-Mer, France > > > >