Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1999/10/05
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]- ---------- >From: owner-leica-users@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us (Leica Users digest) >To: leica-users-digest@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us >Subject: Leica Users digest V12 #41 >Date: Tue, Oct 5, 1999, 11:43 AM > > I'm going to upgrade my printer soon, as well. Have you compared the > output between the 1200 and the 3000? Are you satisfied that the 3 > color+B&W inks of the 3000 equal the performance of the 4 color+B&W of the > 1200. Any other considerations than the capacity of the ink cartridges? > > Thanks for any feedback that you can give me. > > Chandos Chandos, I've been using the Epson 1200 for a few months. The results are simply outstanding. Optimum output from it is obtained when you set the dpi of your image to an integral divisor of the printer's output (1440); going above 480 doesn't seem to help, so I typically use 360 for larger prints and 480 for smaller ones. As far as enlargements then go, you can back calculate the required scan: for a 10x enlargement (8x10) from a 35mm frame when printing at 360 dpi, you should scan at around 3600 dpi (for the longer side). This will minimize pixelation and give a clarity that resolves around 6 - 8 lpm as does silver based prints. As for cost, when I've printed larger 12" x 17" images on 13x19 Pictorico paper, I've calculated it costs me at most $4 for ink (Epson) and $2 for the paper. I've also begun using the MIS Quadtones inks; they are very good. One comment about inks, be careful swapping them; it resets the software monitoring of the ink levels by the computer allowing one to run a cartridge dry, leading to air in the lines. I solved this problem by having a second printer just for B&W. You might be interested in a couple of tests I recently ran on B&W and color films. I ran an informal test comparing 35mm Fuji Superia Reala 100 (pro version), digitally converted to B&W, to 35mm Ilford's Delta 100. The former was locally processed; the latter I processed in Xtol. I shot the same scene with the same lenses (15 mm Heliar and 1.4/35 Summilux ASPH) using two similar bodies (M6s), one with each of the above films (these images were taken a few weeks ago at the Grand Palace in Brussels; sorry we missed meeting Nathan). I scanned both on the Polaroid 4000 dpi unit, trying to optimize each at the time of the scans. The Fuji film was scanned as color negative and the Ilford as B&W negative materials, both at 4000 dpi. (This Polaroid unit is truly excellent unit; perhaps not as good as the Imacon, but it's about 1/10 the price.) Once in PhotoShop, I did tried 3 different conversions on the Fuji film: the Grayscale menu item (the auto-conversion function as I understand was changed for version 5.5 to use different ratios of the RGB channels); a manually tuned one using a selected channel (in this case the Red channel gave the best result); and finally converting the image to LAB and taking the Lightness channel for the B&W image. The latter two methods were subsequently adjusted as necessary to optimize the images. The best result for color to B&W conversion seemed to be using the PS Grayscale menu item. Now as to the comparison between the two films, there is very little difference. The tonality seems identical as does the resolution. At this point, I definitely do not see any reason to continue using B&W film if I'm going to process my images digitally. (In fact, I've stopped using any filters on my lenses since their effect on image can be reproduced in the computer.) With the newest Fuji slide film (100F) that I just tried this past week, the results should be even finer that the Delta 100 once converted to B&W. The 100F is incredibly fine grained with very good skin tones, bright colors, and excellent shadow detail (this latter aspect is something I've always found sorely lacking in Velvia). I hope this helps. If not please email me. Robert Jones California