Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1999/09/25
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]>With Nikons at night or even at day the metering is computer >driven (Matrix) and I often point and shoot not being careful to >exclude bright objects from the apparent metering field or to >compensate for them. Um, no, not really. Yes, you can run a Nikon F5 as a rather large, rather heavy, professional quality point and shoot, adopting the camera's decisions for everything, but you can also operate it in a completely manual mode, utilizing either the built in CenterWeighted or Spot meter modes, and even focus it manually. (My Nikon F3/T and FE2 have only CW metering patterns and the automatic modes are simple, aperture priority operations; I meter manually for any non-average lighting situation, or use the AE-Lock.) You know, it hadn't occurred to me before but Anthony could use his Nikon F5 as a metering trainer. For the 85-95% situations, all he has to do is point his Nikon at a scene and see what aperture/shutter speed combination it comes up with. Then he'd pick up the Leica M6 and point the metering area at various things in the scene until it came up with the same aperture/shutter speed combinations. Using the Nikon's sophisticated computer automation as a guide, he could then study the scene and the area that returned the same reading to understand why. I recommended a similar exercise with an incident light meter, but the Nikon F5 might be even more instructive as it's actually adding some logic and evaluation on top of the plain 18% Grey reading. >With manual metering as in the M6 or a meter you have to be >careful of not getting to much bright anomalies in your reading. Doubly so with night scenes. Exposure for night lit shooting is never 100% deterministic ... highlights will always burn, it's a matter of aesthetics and what you're going for to determine what exposures actually work. Godfrey