Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1999/06/24
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Mark wrote: >So you have lenses dedicated to certain cameras but work ok on other cameras? >Or only work on certain cameras? >Can I get my one camera to work perfectly on all my lenese. >I missed my focus on a bunch of 135 APO headshots recently and although >I could have been otherwise delirious I was wondering if my focus >adjustments were somehow out of wack. I was stopped down to f11 in the studio. >Mark Rabiner Mark, At f11 you should have had no problem, even with the 135/3,4. I have found that some of the really fast lenses need a bit of "tweaking" of the camera to perform well wide open. The M3/Nocti combo is a good case in point. At 1-1,5 meter at f1, the depth of field is minuscule and I have adjusted the rangefinder to give me that dead on. The 75/1,4 tends to have a bias, either it is perfect at the 2-4 meter range and slightly off at longer distance, or off by a couple of inches in the close range. There is a way to do this, either by adjusting the rangefinder close focus setting (that's the easy way) or by adding or subtracting material from the focus cam of the lens (the hard way). You can check it by sticking the camera on a tripod, remove the back door and insert a groundglass on the filmrails of the body. Measure off from the filmplane of the camera (I use the slightly dangerous procedure of running a tape from the film rail, through the lens mount to a post (white) that is placed on the floor. Measure of 1meter exactly (at f1 your depth of field is counted in mm at 1meter), put the lens in place, place groundglass on rail and check that the lens is focussed at 1meter on the barrel and that the post is sharp in the rangefinder patch. If it is sharp, you are home free, if not, you have to have the rangefinder close focus cam adjusted (and also the rest of the rangefinder corrected, any adjustment on the close focus cam will affect the rest of the focus-mechanism). Oh, you should leave the shutter on B for this and use a cable release with a VERY secure clamp on the release. The sound of a Leica shutter hitting a steel measuring tape is rather unnerving to say the least. It is usually not necessary to perform this procedure on the slower lenses or with the 35/1,4 and 50/1,4; there is enough leeway in the depth of field to compensate. The Noctilux and the 75/1,4 does not allow any slop if they are used wide open. I have done this procedure several times over the years, but I will only do it on my own cameras or my own lenses. One of the more harrowing processes is to add material to the focus-cam of the Noctilux. This was done using silver-solder and a jeweller's soldering torch and the cam was later filed to fit perfectly. The flame of the torch is VERY close to the rear element of the Noctilux! (a winecork was inserted to absorb some of the heat and also to protect the rear element). I had someone else do it and I have still not worked up the nerve to do it to my latest Noctilux and M6TTL HM. One day I will try it though. All the best and stay focussed, Tom A