Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1999/01/07
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]I'm always amazed when I hear otherwise fairly knowledgeable photographers talk about films and developers....as if the various combinations have fixed, unvarying tendencies... The so-called "soot and chalk" print quality is simply caused by high values in the negative being too dense (usually above 1.25 net density or so) to print with any tone less than paper-base white. It is not an inherent, unvariable trait of a given film and developer...read and heed the various books on the "zone system"....Ansel's books are good, as well as many others. If your high values are too dense to print on your favorite paper, simply reduce your development time....this will reduce the highlight density...some increase in exposure might be necessary to maintain required shadow detail. If the mid values need to be raised, increase your developer dilution and extend time.....if the mid values need to reduced, relative to the highlights and shadows, INCREASE the concentration of developer, and reduce time to maintain the same net density range. Tri-x in whatever developer for whatever time may have a specific "look", but this look is variable by the person processing the film.... Look at Tech Pan! In D-19, shot at ISO 100 - it's purely a "soot and chalk" product.......But exposed at ISO 12, processed in a phenidone based highly dilute developer, it becomes a beautiful, full scale pictorial film. (with an admittedly bizarre spectral sensitivity -- no yellow filters needed here!) Only difference is in the way it is employed. I hate to hear people claim that this film is "contrasty" or that film is "flat" -- they're admitting their lack of knowledge of basic exposure and development. While T-Max films are strange, and can build some ABSURD highlight densities, it doesn't have to be so.....likewise, the famously fine-grained, "contrasty" films such as Pan-F can easily be tamed....try ISO 25, Microdol 1:3 (to maintain that "leica" sharpness!) for 8 minutes or so at 72-75 F. There's no VooDoo or witchcraft in this field....it's a simple craft. The "art" is in the vision, not the cameras/lenses/films/ developers/ etc. Learn your (fine) tools, and "go make pictures" Thanks, Ted Cheers, Walt