Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1998/11/04
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Thanks Kip: Yes, it is PMK, not PMG. Your comments do help. My plans are to use Delta 100 in the 2-1/4 format. I'll let you know what happens. Thanks again, Bob > Bob: > > I purchased some PMG but haven't had the guts to try it yet. I have read the > PYRO book but not sure that I understand everything yet. How difficult is it? > If, as I assume, you're referring to PMK developer, it's not at all difficult to use, just a bit different from "traditional" processing with, e.g., XTOL. I've been using it for most of this year with Delta 400 and have come to love it, but it did take a bit of thinking for the first few developing sessions. I use the liquid A & B solutions from Photographers' Formulary to make working developer, and bought the syringes they offer, which makes it very simple to measure accurately the small quantities of stock needed to make working solution. The syringes also keep your hands well away from the stock solutions. I don't wear gloves, because you just don't get near the concentrated liquids. I've also read that, for tank processing, you don't really need to be concerned about getting a drop or two of the working solution on your hands, because you can just rinse it off. I think you really need gloves only if you're processing sheets in trays, where your hands are in the developer more or less constantly. The differences I noticed from traditional developing were the lack of temperature sensitivity - just correct your time for temperature other than 70 degrees (4 percent per degree); agitation is 2 inversions/15 seconds, which really ties you to the tank during the developer stage, and for me encourages higher developing temperatures; you must SAVE THE DEVELOPER after the first stage, for later use; you use water instead of acid stop bath - if using large multi-reel tanks this means having pitchers of water available, as filling from the tap may take too long; after fixing you refill the tank with the used developer for 2 minutes (easy if you saved it); and finally, you can't use hypo clear, so you have to wash for a while. Once you've done it a few times it will seem normal. And the negatives make absolutely beautiful prints. So I'd encourage you to screw up your courage and give it a try. Cheers, K >>