Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1998/11/04

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Subject: Re: [Leica] B&W revisited
From: RBedw51767@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 19:47:43 EST

Thanks Kip:

Yes, it is PMK, not PMG.   Your comments do help.

My plans are to use Delta 100 in the 2-1/4 format.  I'll let you know what
happens.

Thanks again,

Bob



 > Bob:
 > 
 > I purchased some PMG but haven't had the guts to try it yet.  I have read
the
 > PYRO book but not sure that I understand everything yet.  How difficult is
it?
 > 
 If, as I assume, you're referring to PMK developer, it's not at all
 difficult to use, just a bit different from "traditional" processing
 with, e.g., XTOL.  I've been using it for most of this year with Delta
 400 and have come to love it, but it did take a bit of thinking for the
 first few developing sessions.  I use the liquid A & B solutions from
 Photographers' Formulary to make working developer, and bought the
 syringes they offer, which makes it very simple to measure accurately
 the small quantities of stock needed to make working solution.  The
 syringes also keep your hands well away from the stock solutions.  I
 don't wear gloves, because you just don't get near the concentrated
 liquids.  I've also read that, for tank processing, you don't really
 need to be concerned about getting a drop or two of the working solution
 on your hands, because you can just rinse it off.  I think you really
 need gloves only if you're processing sheets in trays, where your hands
 are in the developer more or less constantly.
 
 The differences I noticed from traditional developing were the lack of
 temperature sensitivity - just correct your time for temperature other
 than 70 degrees (4 percent per degree);  agitation is 2 inversions/15
 seconds, which really ties you to the tank during the developer stage,
 and for me encourages higher developing temperatures;  you must SAVE THE
 DEVELOPER after the first stage, for later use;  you use water instead
 of acid stop bath - if using large multi-reel tanks this means having
 pitchers of water available, as filling from the tap may take too long; 
 after fixing you refill the tank with the used developer for 2 minutes
 (easy if you saved it);  and finally, you can't use hypo clear, so you
 have to wash for a while.
 
 Once you've done it a few times it will seem normal.  And the negatives
 make absolutely beautiful prints.  So I'd encourage you to screw up your
 courage and give it a try.
 
 Cheers,
 K >>