Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1998/10/21
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]I have been doing this type of photography extensively for many years. I resisted AF for a long time as well. Finally I succumbed and I don't regret having waited, now that AF systems are getting to the point where they actually perform in the field. My suggestion is to keep your current Leica equipment for general photography, as it is a superlative marque to be sure...as many loyal devotees have pointed out. Before purchasing the Leica 1.4 and 2x APO converters, I suggest trying out an EOS 1n or EOS 5 (A2 in the US) and 300 f2.8L USM lens plus the 1.4x and 2x EF teleconverters and the 12mm EF extension tube (I say this as a Nikon user myself--only because the equivalent equipment in Nikon is the F5 and 300 2.8 AF-S and they are more expensive, especially second hand if you can even find them). With this setup you have hand-holdable 300 f2.8 and 420 f4 which are great for flying birds; plus a 600 f5.6 with full autofocus...AND an 840 f8 with the two converters stacked (you need the 12mm tube to do this with Canon and the Nikons need a modification to the lensmount--I had this done and it works superbly). Before I get *flamed* for this last suggestion, let me point out that two of America's most celebrated bird photographers, George Lepp and Arthur Morris, both shoot extensively with these teleconverters stacked together and have many, many published images to their credit from this technique. Again, I am not suggesting you abandon the Leica, just to try this combination out before you make a final decision. Regards, Nigel On Wed, 21 Oct 1998 02:13:31 -0400 Doug Herr <71247.3542@compuserve.com> writes: >>I would like to ask advice of R users who have experience with the >Leica >>APO-extenders. I have used tele-extenders before with other brands >of >>cameras, with unsatisfactory results; degraded sharpness, very soft >edges, >a >>general haze. >> >>Primary use would be in photographing shore birds and waterfowl, and >the >>primary lens "extended" would be the APO Telyt-R f4 280mm. A >wonderful >>lens, but often not enough for skittish wild birds. However, the 280 >is a >>wonderful lens, and I would rather wrestle around and find the lira >for >>something longer if the extenders are not going to deliver the >quality I >>have come to expect of this lens. >> >>So quality is first; I would buy the APO version of the extender. >> >>If the quality is there, the next issue is which one to buy, the 1.4X >or >the >>2X? Is there a difference in image quality between the APO versions >of >>these two? Perhaps some of the LUGgers who have used both can help >me >with >>the telephoto length increase versus loss of speed issue. With this >>particular lens, the 1.4X would take me to an f5.6 400mm and the 2X >an f8 >>560mm...obviously, greater "pull" is appealing, but with f8 as the >fastest >>selection, I would be at the edge of difficult shutter speeds for >such >great >>length, even with a sturdy tripod and MLU. This would be mounted on >an >R8, >>so I've got the brightest SLR viewfinder going. >> >>There are old Telyt R's in very good condition around for about the >price >of >>a new APO extender. Both the 400 and 560 are f6.3. This poses a >quality >>question--which version, extended or prime, will render the best >image on >>film? > > >and Robert responded: > >>The APO Telyt-R f4 280mm is considered by Leica to be its finest R >lens >>period. Use of either extender would not degrade it enough for you >to >>notice. One word of advice though, I have been trying to do shore >birds >>myself, and even with a 2X on my 400, it is not close enough. You >may >wish >>to save your money and spend it on a portable blind so that you can >get >>close enough to make frame filling shots. >> >>I have shot from my truck as a blind using a tripod on the passenger >side, >>but close birds are few and far between. The top two images herer >were >done >>with the 400 2.8 APO and the old non-APO 2x plus the APO 1.4x for >1120mm >F8 >>using the truck blind method. >>http://home.istar.ca/~robsteve/photography/birds.htm >>I have come to the conclusion that I need to use a blind and set up >and >>wait using the 400 2.8 alone or with the 1.4x. I have seen results >of up >>close pictures taken with a blind and they are amazing. You may want >to >>try a blind first before spending on the converter. The 1.4x may >be a >>better choice to start with. > >Hey guys, Robert's "truck blind" idea is a good one, an idea I've used >at >times but the longest possible lens isn't always the right answer. >Photographing birds is like any other branch of photography: know your >subject. I've made good, frame-filling photographs of wild, >unrestrained >birds using 50mm and 90mm lenses (one was shown at the Palo Alto LUG >slide >night a few months back - anyone care to guess which one?) but the >lens I >use most is the 400, and the f/6.8 Telyt is a bird photographer's >fantasy. > >There are several tricks to get closer to birds: > >) reduce your profile. Tall two-leggeds are more threatening than >for-leggeds or belly-crawlers. Lie down in the mud & let the tide >push the >birds toward you (wear disposable clothes!) > >) hide yourself near the bird's favorite perch, using a blind (called >a >"hide" in the U.K.). Birds are creatures of habit, as humans are, and >will >use the same perch repeatedly. Find such a perch & set the blind up. >You >may need to wait a couple hours before the bird returns. > >) act like a prey species, not a predator. Predators stare and sneak >closer; prey species are constantly aware of their enviornment. IMHO >the >big lens stuck to a tripod looks like a gigantic eye staring at the >bird. >I prefer the hand-held Telyt, which I raise for the exposure, then >quickly >and quietly put back down at my side. Occasionally aim the lens at >other >stuff so the bird doesn't get the idea he/she's the target. > >) find a favorite feeding spot & wait. A hatchery's outflow near my >home >is a favorite of the local herons. After 2 hours of hanging around, >acting >like a prey species, I become part of the background and the 280 is >too >long. > >) Let the bird get used to you gradually. Walk to within 100 feet & >just >hang out for a while; after 10 minutes or so you can walk a bit closer >without alarming the bird. Repeat as nessesary. Using this method >I've >photographed a hummingbird in my yard at 6 feet (2 meters). When I >ran >short of film I walked back to the house, reloaded, and walked right >back >to the hummingbird & resumed photography. > >I wouldn't do without the Leica hardware but the really important tool >is >the gray stuff inside the brain bucket. I hope these tricks help. > >Doug Herr >Sacramento > ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]