Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1998/08/10
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Disfromage@aol.com wrote: > I strongly urge you to learn to develop you own film. It's the only way to > have control over a critical part of the printing process. If you don't have > good negatives, you can't make good prints. Sing it, Brother! [...] > I don't think you can beat Tri-x. It's quite forgiving and has beautiful > tonality. It has the perfect look for Leicas. My current favorite developer > is Kodak XTOL. It gives fine grain and the prints have a certain sparkle that > I don't see with other developers. I would rate Tri-x at 200 or 250 to get a > little juicier negative and use about 10 % less time than Kodak recommends. > If you want finer grain than Tri-x, I would suggest Ilford Delta 100 rated at > 100 in XTOL. It's slightly fussier than Tri-x, but very pretty. I generally rate Tri-X at 320 for standard usage, and develop at -10% (HC110); sounds like we're on the same wavelength. Still, I always preferred Ilford HP5 in HC110. I had to work out development times (I rated HP5 at 400 or 800 depending on use) but my HP5 negs often seemed to have a luminosity to them that was absent when using tri-X. Now I use TMAX 100 & 400 with TMAX developer, at rated speeds, in TMAX developer used EXACTLY as Rochester recommends (including temp control to +/- 0.3 degrees C and a water jacket to keep it that way- these are comparatively finicky films!). Fantastic films, but not the best to learn on. One other thing: if you're just beginning, shoot a LOT of film. I STRONGLY suggest buying a bulk loader- it removes many inhibitions if you know that you're only paying a $0.05 US per frame shot. Good luck, - -Alexey