Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1997/10/07
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Joe Berenbaum wrote: > > I'm hoping to attend and photograph a 21st party in a few weeks time, but > it's all a bit strange- it will be "fairly dark" I'm told, there will be > fairy lights, and other illumination also but possibly not very much of it. > A number of people may apparently be swooping in dressed as vampires and the > whole thing may be a bit of a spectacle. I say "may" because it is a > question of what can be arranged and keeping it hushed up so the person > whose 21st party this is doesn't realise that it will be anything other than > a normal boring birthday party. So- I'm thinking of taking an M6 and a > Noctilux and a 35mm Summicron and probably a 28mm Elmarit. All of a sudden I > finally understand why people buy those f1.4 35mm Summilux lenses... I don't > want to use flash for any of this. My main concern is what film to use. I > want to do most of this in black and white and I don't want to run out of > film speed. I can use HP5+ up to ISO 800 but want some insurance against > that not being high enough. So if anyone has any particular film/developer > combinations for ISO ratings of 1000 or higher that they feel produce > attractive images, please make suggestions. My inclination is to use Neopan > 1600 or TMax 3200 and rate it at whatever is needed at the time, and develop > it in Xtol, but I don't feel at all confident with this idea because I've > never used either of of those combinations. In fact I haven't rated any b&w > film that high for a long time. Any recommendations, anyone? > > Joe Berenbaum I'll suggest that you try both the Fuji Neopan 1600, rated at 800, 1600 and 3200 and also the T-Max 3200 rated at 800, 1000, 1600, 3200, 6400 and see for yourself the grain and tonal quality that they produce under the circumstances that you mentioned. Please make a test in advance under similar conditions and you'll be able to get a sense of what you are going to get. I'll make the light readings with an incident light meter and double check with a spot meter. With the spot I'll look for the shadows and highlights, just to see if they are in the range. I use Fuji Neopan 1600 and developed it in T-Max Dev. RS for 2.5 min. in a JOBO rot. 4 at 75 degree F. You have to pre wet it for 5 min.. The T-Max 3200 is developed in T-Max dev. RS at 75 degree in tank for the recommended time in the insert. Be careful with the agitation, agitate it slowly and only three inversions every minute. I preferred the Fuji Neopan 1600 for the grain structure and the tonal scale. I've seen beautiful images from T-Max 3200 and I guess that it is a matter of practice and mastery of the materials. You will get the mastery over the materials if you practice enough and be consistent with your procedures. Good luck!! Alberto