Re: Incident Meters and such

[Jim Brick <jim@brick.org>]

At 08:46 AM 7/11/97 -0600, you wrote:

>Now, using the incident meter, I've managed to
>go up a level in my exposure accuracy. I just picked up ten rolls of Provia,
>and 5 rolls of Velvia that I shot using just the hand held meter. Not only
>are there no off exposures in the batch, the color saturation throughout all
>the rolls is incredible. Even the lab guy came out and asked what I was
>doing differently, and to comment on the improved quality of my work. Gone
>are the days of underexposed shots, and blown out pictures.
>
>Anyway, the 308BII is tiny, really light-weight, and simple to use. Also, it
>takes a single AA. I'm hooked!
>
>Regards,
>
>Ben W. Holmes


I really have to grin <BG> when I hear great stories like this. I'm really
glad someone else is endorsing the incident meter. Way to go Ben! I would
like to put my $.02 worth in about incident meters. Who me???

When I went to Brooks Inst. of Photography (60 & 61) there was no such
thing as TTL metering except for the Popular Mechanics PM2 meter kit with a
flex probe. Not very useful for normal photography. What we were taught,
from the very beginning, is the INCIDENT meter. We made comparisons with
reflected readings of various subjects, spent a lot of time plotting gamma
curves of various exposure/development/lighting situations, etc. What was
learned is: what constitutes correct exposure; when looking at a scene, how
do you want it to look on the film... then how to get it; what is gamma,
shoulder, toe, d-min, d-max, and how to compute and use it; how to
compensate for bellows (lens) extension, filters, etc... the bottom line is
that usually the only way to take total control over your results is via
the incident meter. It is not biased by reflective surfaces, predominant
color or density, light sources within or in the fringes of your picture,
etc. A good spot meter can also help you if you have the experience to use
it properly since it is influenced by the reflectivity of your subject.
Gray cards have a reflective surface and depending upon the manufacturer
and the angle you hold it (vs the sun angle) you will get different
reflected readings. Gray cards are not consistent. The incident meter is king!

Now, in practice, when I'm shooting mundane scenery or other simple
subjects, I use the built-in meter in my R7's. Usually averaging. And I
usually bracket. Simple, quick, and it works. I must say though, 99% of the
time, the original unbracketed exposure is the best. Leica meters are good.
For complex subjects and for all subjects with my 4x5, I use my incident
meter. For really strange situations (ie; distant illuminated building at
dusk) I resort to the spot meter attachment for my incident meter. The spot
meter in my R7's could work but with your camera on a tripod, framing the
scene and taking an in-camera spot reading of some particular area, are
mutually exclusive activities. Especially when the light is constantly
changing, like at dusk.

There's no one complete overall solution. You have to evaluate where you
are, what you have, what you want, who it's for, etc. But as Ben said, the
best meter, under normal circumstances, for consistent results is the
incident meter. If I could only have one meter, it would be an incident
meter with a spot attachment. Great shooting Ben!!! Put some of them on
your web site.

Jim